Day 33: Portomarín --> San Xulián (28.3 km)...
This was a difficult day of walking: not physically, but mentally. From Sarria the camino begins to get crowded because Sarria is the easiest place to get to by bus that is just within the requirement that the pilgrim office demands in order for a pilgrim to obtain a compostela, the certificate of proof that you have walked the camino. A pilgrim must walk 100 km ...or bike (or go by horse) for 200km... to Santiago de Compostela to qualify for the compostela. As a result, there is a large influx of new arrivals to the camino in Sarria, largely school-age kids who often walk at the end of their school year. Being the end of June, this is exactly what happened and there was noticeably a lot more people on the road, mostly kids... and they talk a lot, goof around and play music on the way. Not that there is anything wrong with that...they are just doing what comes naturally to teenagers of all countries...but I did spend a large part of the day trying to get away from the sounds of their voices and music, either by slowing down, speeding up or taking breaks. Mostly I was unsuccessful in my attempts but that just gave me new opportunities to be patient and tolerant. (sigh!) However, while I may want to walk the camino quietly and with reflection, that is not everyone´s way, and the camino is for all. Besides which, as pilgrims, we must always remember that this is their country and we are guests in Spain. Still, it was a challenging day. Happily, this was the worst day in that respect... the next two were not as bad... and I was able to ameliorate the situation by starting earlier than usual. After all, teenagers are not known for being early risers. :-)
The day´s end, according to most of the guidebooks, should have been in the town of Palas do Rei, however it was not a very friendly or attractive town and most of those I have met decided, as did I, to continue a little further. I was very glad I did because as a result I stayed in a small hamlet called San Xulián which had a population of 12 people and six cows, some chickens and a few cats. The albergue was charming and the hospitalleros were very nice and welcoming. They also cooked dinner for us, which was delicious. Their hospitality was uplifting, and it was a very good end to a long and trying day.
Day 34: San Xulián --> Arzúa (25.4 km)...
Another nice walking day, in part because of the lovely eucalyptus forest through which we needed to walk. The light through the trees was delightful! Arzúa itself is a rather haphazard town, with no discernible main square and little to recommend it in terms of architecture. We had a fun time though as the semi-finals of soccer were playing this night (Germany vs. Italy) and we were in the company of some of the German pilgrims we have met along the way. Unfortunately for them, Germany lost the match. However that will make our pilgrim friend Alberto very happy! I sent an email to Alberto and to Gary (mentioned earlier as the fellow who needed an electrical adaptor in Moratinos a few weeks ago) and asked them to meet us in Santiago on Saturday which they both replied that they are able to do. On Sunday it will be the final championship game of the Eurpoean cup and it will be Spain vs. Italy playing for the cup...sorry Alberto, but we feel obliged to root for Spain!
Day 35: Arzúa --> Arco do Pino (19.0 km)...
Not much to report on today. It was a nice walk...not long (only 19 km!)...and through eucalyptus forest again. The most memorable thing to report on today is that this is the last day before we reach our arrival in Santiago. I had planned to arrive there today but changed my plans to wait in Sarria for Mike, Nari & Emily to catch up with me. I will be going out with my camino friends shortly and, as promised, I will raise a glass of wine (and ask my friends to do likewise) to toast my cousin Yvonne whose birthday it is today. Happy birthday Yvonne!
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